Benoît sources grapes to showcase similar geological strata in the Côte des Bar, within a 25km radius of Buxières-Sur-Arce – the Gautherots’ hometown. He solely buys sustainably-grown grapes, often on cool north-western oriented Kimmeridgian slopes – vineyards mostly overlooked by the Marne-based houses in favour of the southern exposed parcels. Production is gradually increasing, buying from two farmers in 2015 to six nowadays (of whom Bertrand’s brother in Buxières has been the principal supplier).
Apart from making stunning champagnes, the main purpose behind Clandestin is helping the local growers through conversion to organics – the aim is to create a movement towards respectful viticulture and bring the community together.
Benoît grew up in Beaune and trained with Jean-Philippe Fichet while studying – Jean-Philippe could not stop praising his ex-employee the last time we visited him in Meursault – Benoît's attention to detail, passion and Burgundian instincts have enabled him to master vinification 'sous bois' and élevage quickly. Indeed, all of the Clandestin wines are vinified and aged in oak, Benoît is a big fan of older 500/600ltr barrels – this size allows for reduction which lowers the need for sulphur to the bare minimum (if used at all). "It keeps the wine 'droit' and enhances purity", they explain.
The Clandestin wines are already making waves internationally, and we predict a lot more will be heard about this unique and exciting project.